Taming the highest Bangladeshi peaks

Mountains in Bangladesh are not as high as to be challenging for the adept hikers, but she certainly has some mountains which are good in height and good challenging ground for novice hikers. Mount Kewkaradong, Mount Tajingdong and Mount Safa Hapong (it is now claimed as the highest mountain of Bangladesh, with a GPS reading of 3488 feet) are the three claimed highest peaks within the country. The basic objective of our expedition was to conquer all three highest mountains in Bangladesh one by one. The team consisted of five members from different corners of Dhaka city, having the same interest. The team consisted of Rafiul Nakib, Sayem Sujat Shuvro, Muhammad Mahmudul Haque (Farooque bhai, who believes mountain hiking is not for him, but joins us almost every time), Md. Mushfequl Alam (Mushfequl Bhai), Kaiyoum Bhai and myself, Anwar Hossain Chowdhury , as team leader.
We had been planning for this expedition for one month and after extensive planning and groundwork, we started our journey on 26 February, 2011 from Fakirapul by S. Alam Bus Services, which offers direct bus service to Bandarban every night at 11: 30pm.
Day-1
The team reached in Bandarban on 27 February at 7:30 am. The day was bright and shining. We hired two rickshaws and headed for Ruma Bus Station. At the bus station we got the tickets for Ghat no 1, and had our breakfast and tea. The bus started at 8:00 am from Bandarban for Ghat no 1, which is a close spot to Ruma Bazar. It takes usually 2.5 hours to reach to Ghat 01, but this time it took 3.5 hours to reach  to Ghat no 01 from Bandarban town, as the development initiatives were in full force incurred by Bangladesh Army for development of the road , which forced us to stop on the way multiple times.
After reaching at Ghat 01, we hired a boat with Tk. 20/head for going to Ruma Bazar.  As the summer was stepping up, the water level of Sangu River dropped dramatically, and it was difficult to paddle the boat through the shallow channels of Sangu. But this very river becomes so deep and waves become so strong in the rainy season that it creates a wild and scenic beauty, and carries the life blood of cultivation of certain specific crops in the upstream. Tobacco and peanuts are the main crops in this area.  It was a 40 minutes peaceful boat journey which took us to Ruma Bazar. The Ruma Bazar is a small Upzilla of Bandarban which is also the starting point for the distant mountains of the area. We reached Ruma Bazar just at 1pm. It was a burning summer afternoon and the sun was scorching brilliantly over our head.
We (the starving hikers) did not delay to hire a guide and headed for the Army Camp. Each team, intended to go to Boga Lake and to the mountains, has to report to Ruma Bazar Army Camp and Ruma Bazar Police Camp for security reasons. As soon as we completed the formalities, we bought some chickens for making BBQ, and finished our lunch at Ruma Bazar. By 2:30pm we hired a Jeep, locally known as “Chander Gari” and started for Boga Lake. We reached Boga Lake by 5pm and lodged at Siam Didi’s cottage.
Boga Lake is a lake situated at 1290 feet high above the sea level. It’s a magnificent lake in the midst of mountains. It’s like a base camp for the hikers who hike regularly in this area. There are many phenomena about Boga Lake; many stories and fables move in the local community.
There is a Bawm village adjacent to the lake, where, tourists and hikers can hold the night in exchange of rent. Nearby there is an Army Camp, where every tourist group needs to register and report their arrival and next departure plan. This is also done for security reasons.  The Bawms are the friendliest, clean and second highly educated indigenous community in the CHT community. So staying in a Bawm house is a bonus. We started to prepare our BBQ and had our dinner by 8 pm. The BBQ was ready at 12am, and after a whole day journey, the BBQ tasted great.  It was a great way to finish the day. We went to bed with a plan to start the next day as early as possible. Early to bed and early to rise……makes a hiker, healthy wealthy and wise.
Day-2
I woke up at 6 am every day, and it was not an exception for me on that very day. I started calling others to leave the bed, to get a brilliant view of sunrise and the taste of tamarinds, which were hanging from a tree nearby. The taste of the tamarind was so mouthwatering that we all had a lot of tamarind like crazy school kids, and pretty soon we paid for such a childish act. Before having our breakfast, we all were looking for the office (lavatory) as things were busting off in our stomachs.
We settled the issue ASAP, and had a magnificent Khichuri and egg omelet and started our journey for the Mount Kewkaradong at 7am. As we moved on feet, the hills started to get steeper and steeper, but somehow, manageable. We moved together towards a fall locally known as Chingri Jhiri (a magnificent fall) and reached there within 40 minutes. We ate papaya, which we were carrying with us as a gift for our team from Siam Didi, from Boga Lake. Then we drank the fresh water from the fall, filled our water bottles, and started moving towards Darjeeling Para. We reached Darjeeling Para around 10:30 am. Here we rested for a while, drank tea with local biscuits and started moving. We could see the peak of Mount Kewkaradong, which was the source of our inspiration. We reached the peak of Kewkaradong at 11:00 am in the morning. We hoisted the national flag on the top, and promised to move forward. We shot some group photos on the top of Mount Kewkaradong and moved forward. As Mushfek Bhai and Kayum Bhai were feeling sick, they went back to Boga Lake and we moved forward. We still had a long way to go from there.
After a 10 minute’s walk we reached Passing Para. This is now so far the highest village of Bangladesh, and both Bawm and Murong tribes live here. Here we met our friend Robert Da, and drank tea at his shop. Then we moved forward towards Thaikong Para and reached there at 2pm in the afternoon.
The hot sun was burning on our head, and we were very dried up, as we entered Thaikong Para. Here I met my old friend Chao Thang, who received us cordially and arranged lunch for us. The menu was rice, pumpkin curry and egg. It was awesome and energetic, and we swallowed everything in no time. Then we received a massage in cell phone that, Bangladesh had defeated Ireland in their group match in the ICC World Cup Cricket. The news inspired us and we decided to dedicate the expedition for the success of Bangladesh cricket team. In order to rejoice such good news we purchased two chickens from local villagers and celebrated till late night by making BBQ.
The chill cold wind was blowing at night to remind us that difficult time was coming.  Farooque Bhai was very nostalgic; the cold wind was blowing making a melancholy tune as it passed the long unknown trees beside the grave yard. To honor Farquee bhai’s continuous request, the whole group sat at the bench in front of the graveyard of Thaikong Para, and listened to the whisper of the winds  and enjoyed the stars. Suddenly, we saw a falling star and crossed our fingers making different wishes. How beautiful my country is! God is so great; people can’t see the tears of joy at night. I was very happy to feel the way my team members were enjoying the beauties of nature, far away from the city.
Day-3
Today we all woke up early at 6:30 am. As we needed to cover a lot by hiking today, everyone was thrilled and ready to set off. I wanted to take my old friend Chao Thang as my new guide, but unfortunately he was unable to join my team this time. The reason was that he had to prepare his land for Joom cultivation, which was significant for ensuring his annual crop production. So he requested me to take his younger brother Vandem as our guide. We took Vandem with us and started at 7:30 am sharp. We marched toward Tamlong Para, which is a Bawm village, and 3 hour’s distance from Thaikong Para. Initially the way was easy, but later as the sun grew hotter, it became physically challenging, and this is what we live for. We reached Tamlong  Para at 11 am. We bought two packs of biscuits (that is all they had in the only shop), and tea was free offered by the shopkeeper.
Having tea without sugar, we started again for Dulachan. On the way a very aged Bawm lady was waiting for us at the end of the village and offered us two bottles of cold water, we accepted them as a gift of God. We thanked the lady and started moving.
Instead of the advice of our guide for a shortcut but difficult route, we decided to take the long route which took almost 2 hrs for us to reach Dulachan.
At Dulachan we got cooked rice and raw reddish and greenish bananas. The main guide cum cook of our team Sadek made an extraordinary salad with the available radish and chilies that was tremendously tasty and energetic. We took a rest for 1 hour, and then completed our lunch and started for Nephew Para. As we moved forward, we reached the Chanbok Fall and then captured some mind blowing pictures. In the hilly area the sun vanished by 4:30pm. We trekked forward and on the way we met a group of 4 members who had conquered Safa Haflong that day.
We congratulated the team and crossed the Remecry River.  We walked by the Remecry River bank for 30 more minutes, and Farooque complained that he could not see the trail well. He wears very thick glasses (-7) and he is literally blind without
glasses.
I was thinking seriously if we could move further ahead today. But as there was not any para close by, we were bound to keep on moving. All on a sudden, a small Murong para appeared before us, but I decided not to stay there as Murongs are not that much welcoming.
We kept on moving and met two Tripura men coming from the opposite direction, who said there was a Tripura village nearby named Hanjhorai Para. They also informed us that it would be difficult for us to go to Nephew Para that day, and requested us to hold the night at Hanjhorai. We thanked them and started moving. Then we came to a crossing where we needed to cross Remecry River again.  This time the bottom of the Remmercy River was slippery. We lit our torch and head lamps and crossed the river one by one. The water level was high and the water was cold. We were shivering, the water
felt freezing.
We crossed the beautiful and mighty Chongbok Fall, which was still in full force at the end of winter. Suddenly the area became murky and chilly air was raging over us in a crazy manner. As we climbed the river bank on the other side, in the dark, we could see the fire, and heard the dogs barking identifying the intruder’s tune. It assured me it was a para at last!
So we reached Hanjhorai Para at 7: 30pm. As everyone wanted to change wet dresses, we decided to stay at Hanjhorai para. We went to karbariy’s house--the only house with solar light available in the village, and lodged there.  There was a single bed sheet for every member and no pillow at all. Fortunately, we took some warm clothes and jackets with us. Outside it was so chill that everybody was bound to put on at least 3 shirts and 2 pants and socks before slipping.
The day was terribly hot, and the night was freezing. We bought a chicken and rice for dinner from the “karbari” (local tribal leader and head businessman), and our guides Sadek and Vandem were back in action with the available food supply for the team. They took over the kitchen of the house and started dinner preparations.  After one hour we had hot steaming nodules served. Thanks to Nakib and Shuvro for buying and carrying the nodules in their backpack.

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